504 - Type in Context - Binding

The binding technique I choose will be another big characteristic of the publication which needs to be considered to be successful and fitting with the whole context. Last year I made use of the pamphlet stitch with a couple of smaller bound publications I did and also experimented with some coil binding in the main project of 404. This year I do want to dig even deeper with where I can go with the binding and how it can better communicate my driven concept of the photo-book, in relation to amount of pages, size and layout. There are the main most popular techniques shown below but I will be presenting some more experimental options aswell..

Signature - A signature is a set of papers folded one time.
Book block - A book block is a set of sewn signatures or a stack of glued single sheets that make out the inside of the book.
Endpapers - Endpapers are sheets of papers, folded once, attached with a little bit of glue at the spine-side at the front or the back of the book block.


"A badly bound document is like a badly designed document. Not much good. Glued, stapled, riveted, stitched, perfect bound, hot glued or cold: the way we bind our documents says as much about our abilities as designers as the way we kern our type!"

"There's nothing more hopeless than a document that won't lie flat, or one that splits when you open it too far, or one that is bound so poorly the pages fall out."

Saddle Stitch - With the correct tools this method is the easiest and the most economical binding method. Pages are folded, creased and stapled together (not by an ordinary stapler - a stapler with long jaws, designed specifically for saddle stitching). We often see this type of binding used for lookbooks, booklets, and magazines that have a smaller page count. Dependant on the small page count the publication should lay flat when open with no manipulating arc. It is not recommended for many pages and is one of the less durable binding methods, as pages and cover can easily be damaged reducing its lifespan.

This process is available to me with the resources I have at the institution.

Pamphlet Stitch - uses a single section (signature) and is sewn with a running stitch down the spine; often an alternative to stapling (saddle stitch) but in my opinion leaves you with a much more elegant finish.

When I did my research into this method it is clear how easy but aesthetically pleasing method this is, which can be adapted into more advanced techniques, featuring varied stock sizes and colour bound to the same spine. Perhaps with a protective cover ontop? 

The example on the left reflects how I can be experimental with fold-outs and various stock sizes which allow the photo-book to feel more interactive for the viewer and make the information more rememberable and functional too.

Perfect Binding - a form of binding most often used in the types of books you find yourself reading on the train or at home, otherwise known as paperback or softcover books. Perfect bound books can also be useful for manuals, catalogues, and annuals. Pages are folded into sections (termed signatures in the industry) and glued with a heavier printed wrap-around cover into the spine using a strong adhesive. It's not the strongest form of binding and the book won't open flat on the table; you can tell when a book has been poorly perfect bound when your pages start falling out.
Can upgrade to PUR perfect binding, which is the next step up. It is the same techniqe but a stronger adhesive is used and generally, a hardback covered book would only be PUR perfect bound, as the glue used to form your paperback or softcover books won't adhere to the hard case spine very well.

This process is more economical as appose to hardback but still gives an impressive overall finish. It has a lower weight which decreases the shipping costs. And it is more economical for titles with a shorter lifespan due to the subject.

Perfect binding reduces the inner gutter, margins of the book glued to spine.
Has a shorter lifespan to hardcover.
Does not lay flat due to cover gluing to spine.

This process is available to me with the resources I have at the institution.

Coptic Stitching - A non-adhesive form of binding that stems from bookbinding methods employed by ancient Egyptians! Your most secure binding method. Here pages are folded together into sections (signatures). Each section is then sewn into the following section along the spine. Regardless of the page-count it will be able to lay flat and is considered a more unique bespoke method. The process is expensive to product in large quantities however, mainly for smaller quantities. 

 Partnered with a textured hard-back, with an embossed cover.














Can just sew into the endpapers rather than actually penetrating the outer cover if I want the outer hard-back cover to be clean.

This image reflects how I can partner certain stock colours for the end-papers and also experiment and general, and then how this will be partly visible on the spine. Only downside is there will be no type on the spine reducing quick recognisability when on a bookshelf sideways. But this is where other characteristics make the book more recognisable due to justified colours of stock petruding out, etc.

Secret Belgian Binding - The way the secret Belgian bound books are made was only recently rediscovered. This binding method is wonderful because it creates the illusion of a full hardcover book, while you can create the front, back, and spine boards separately. This creates the opportunity to use unbendable materials like plastics and wood for the entire book. The special sewing method binds all three cover-parts and the signatures together in one go.

Cased-in Wiro Binding - If you would like to hide the wire from the outside there is a solution known as a Cased-in Wiro. This technique, however, is more involved than your traditional wiro bound document, but the final result looks lovely as you can see and I can apply this design idea to the stitched techniques aswell only revealing the complex bind when opened up..

Japanese Binding - This is useful for binding single sheets of paper. You can have either a soft back or hard back cover which attaches to the text block with decorative stitching along the spine. Another option using this decorative sewing technique is to only expose the stitching on the inside of the book. This is achieved by turning in the edge of the cover boards to create a hinge; the book is then sewn from the inside. It is recommended to use Japanese style binding for large or landscape format books as the binding requires a large margin.

Case Bound - This binding uses the word 'case' because the book block and the cover are created separately. The cover is then attached to the book block by 'encasing it'. The book block is glued to the cover with its endpapers. The resulting books look very similar to the German bound books but are less durable. Case bindings are the go-to bindings for graphic industry as well as the hand bookbinder because they look very professional and are relatively easy to produce, the professional high quality finish that can suggest high value so a higher retail price could be added. 

Expense is the biggest drawback, it can be several times the amount of perfect binding.
High minimum order quantity is usually required to justify the production and manufacture of this process. Case bound books are usually heavier, this can increase the shipping costs or make the book harder to be held. Typically a dust jacket covers the hardback, this can increase the cost further.

Accordion Book - The accordion book is a folded structure; the book block is made by simply folding a sheet of paper back and forth in page-width increments. And then it makes use of two hard blocks which sit either side of the end-pages.

Again, I can experiment with this layout and see how I can have pop-outs and various signatures petruding at different sections of the book for systematic effect.