During the 19th century, tattooing flourished in England like nowhere else in Europe. This was due to the tradition of tattooing in the British Navy, which began with the first voyage of Captain Cook in 1769. During the decades that followed, many British seamen returned home bearing souvenirs of their travels in the form of exotic tattoos. Sailors learned the art, and by the middle of the 18th century most British ports had at least one tattoo artist in residence.
Royal Tattoos
Tattooing gained royal sanction in 1862 when the Prince of Wales visited the Holy Land and had a Jerusalem Cross tattooed on his arm. In later life, as King Edward VII, he acquired a number of traditional tattoos. When his sons, the Duke of Clarence and the Duke of York (later King George V), visited Japan in 1882, Edward VII instructed their tutor to take them to the tattoo master Hori Chiyo, who tattooed designs on their arms. On their way home, the two Dukes visited Jerusalem and were tattooed by the same artist who had tattooed their father 20 years before.
Following the example of the Dukes, many wealthy Britons and naval officers acquired tattoos from Japanese masters. Read this article that appeared in the 1898 Harmsworth Monthly Pictorial Magazine entitled Tattooed Royalty. Queer Stories of a Queer Craze by R. J. Stephen, for more about this "fad". By 1890 the fad had spread to the US, and tattoos were seen on members of the highest social circles.
The first British professional was D.W. Purdy who established a shop in North London around 1870. In a booklet dated 1896, Purdy wrote:
"Before you commence to tattoo any individual you must be able to sketch well, as it is very difficult matter to sketch on a person's arm or on any other part of the body; you will have a good deal of rubbing out to do before you get the figure drawn correctly. Whatever part of the body you have to tattoo you must see that there are no large veins in the way, as they must be avoided… Before you commence drawing out your figure you must see that hairs are shaved off or you will have some difficulty in trying to sketch…"
The 1897 article by Gambier Bolton that appeared in The Strand magazine entitled Pictures in the Human Skin gives an overview of the tattoo scene of the late 1800's.
During the 19th century, tattooing was approved of and even encouraged in the British army. Field Marshall Earl Roberts, who himself was tattooed, directed that "every officer in the British Army should be tattooed with his regimental crest. Not only does this encourage esprit de corps but also assists in the identification of casualties.
One of the most prominent British tattoo artists of the late 19th century was Tom Riley. Riley had a natural talent for drawing that he developed into tattooing thousands of regimental crests and other military designs during the South African War and the Sudan Campaign. After leaving the army, Riley established himself as a tattoo artist in London.
His cousin, Samuel O'Reilly was a successful New York tattooist who invented and patented the first electric tattooing machine in 1890.
Samuel's success was not only due to his sill but also his salesmanship. One of his original publicity stunts was the over-all tattooing of an Indian water buffalo at the Paris Hippodrome in 1904.
Riley's greatest rival was Sutherland Macdonald. Like Reilly, Macdonald learned tattooing while serving in the British army and later enjoyed the benefit of formal art school training. In 1890 he opened a London studio. He dressed formally and called himself a "tattooist" rather than a "tattooer". Macdonald enjoyed a privileged status with the Royal Navy and he advanced his career by courting journalists so that he became the subject of flattering magazines and newspaper articles. In 1897, Le Temps reported that he had elevated tattooing to an art form and in 1900 he was referred to in L'Illustration as "the Michelangelo of tattooing." MacDonald continued to tattoo until his death in 1937.
George Burchett, is considered one of the greatest of the early British tattoo artists. He began his professional career in 1900, when Riley and Macdonald were at the height of their fame. As a child he was fascinated by tattoos and at age 13, he enlisted in the navy and learned the rudiments of tattoo art. After roaming the world for twelve years, he returned to England and at 28, he opened his first studio and began a career that earned him fame, a small fortune and the title, "King of Tattooists".
Burchett is the only early British tattoo artist who left a written record of his life and his work. After his death, his friend helped compile and edit his memoirs, diaries and other materials and in 1958 a book, Memoirs of a Tattooist was published.
Tattoos in Prison
I looked into some of the hidden meanings of tats within prisons across the world, to help distinguish how this practise can be frowned upon in relation to crime, but also how people brand and represent themselves behind bars.
Tattoo's will always have that past assumption of being affiliated with delinquents in prison - as it will always be a thing in and out of prison for gangs, etc.
Prisons around the world are filled with inmates bearing all sorts of ornate and cryptic tattoos. While these designs may look random and confusing to us, oftentimes they have very specific meanings.
- The Classic Teardrop - One of the most widely recognised prison tattoos, the teardrop's meaning varies geographically. In some places, the tattoo can mean a lengthy prison sentence, while in others it signifies that the wearer has committed murder. If the teardrop is just an outline, it can symbolise an attempted murder. It can also mean that one of the inmate's friends was murdered and that they are seeking revenge. The teardrop has been popularised recently by rappers and other celebrities, but still remains a staple in prisons. Those who are newbies behind bars with a teardrop tattoo will make a lot of enemies, fast.
- Faceless Clock - A faceless or hand-less clock on a prisoner is meant to symbolise time standing still, and is inked onto inmates who are serving long terms or life sentences.
- Five Dots - five dots represents time done in prison. Also known as the quincunx, the four dots on the outside represent four walls, with the fifth on the inside representing the prisoner. This tattoo can be found internationally, among both American and European inmates. The dots are typically found on an inmate's hand, between the thumb and forefinger.
- Three Dots - The three dots tattoo is a common prison tattoo that represents “mi vida loca,” or “my crazy life.” It's not associated with any particular gang, but with the gang lifestyle itself. This tattoo is typically found on the hands or around the eyes. It can also carry some religious significance, such as representing Christianity's holy trinity.
- Shamrock or AB - Those are the symbols of the Aryan Brotherhood, the prison system's most notorious white supremacist gang. This prison gang has a variety of tattoos to look out for, ranging from "AB" to Nazi symbols like a swastika or SS bolts. The Brotherhood makes up 1 percent of the inmate population, but are responsible for 20 percent of murders inside of U.S. prisons
- ACAB - "ACAB" is an acronym which is short for "All Cops Are Bastards."
- Spider Webs - Cobwebs typically represent a lengthy term in prison. The symbolism is associated with spiders trapping prey; or criminals trapped behind bars. This tattoo is commonly found on the elbow, signifying sitting around so long with your elbows on the table that a spider made a web on your elbow, though it can also be located on the neck.
- Dagger Through the Neck - In Russian prisons, a dagger across the shoulders and through the neck is one of the most infamous tattoos in the entire culture. It signifies that the wearer has killed someone in prison and is available for hire.
- 1488 - 1488 is another well-known design worn by Nazi and white supremacist inmates. The "14" refers to the "fourteen word" slogan: "We must secure the existence of our people and a future for White Children." The "88" refers to the "88 Precepts," a manifesto written by fellow white supremacist David Lane while he was serving a life sentence. Or can be seen as shorthand for the 8th letter of the alphabet twice, HH, which represents Heil Hitler.
- Barbed Wire - When worn on the arm, each barb on the wire represents a year on that prisoner's sentence. However, when seen on the forehead the tattoo means that the prisoner is currently serving a life sentence.
- EWMN - stand for the words, "Evil, Wicked, Mean, Nasty."
- Rose with Thorns - when you come across a prisoner in Asia or Russia who bears a rose with thorns design, that means that the wearer spent his 18th birthday while in prison.
- Five Point Crown - This is the symbol of the Latin Kings gang, which is one of the biggest Hispanic gangs in the U.S. based out of Chicago. The crown will often be accompanied by the letters ALKN, which stands for Almighty Latin Kings Nation. The five points are due to the Latin Kings being an affiliate of the People Nation gang, which is represented by the number five. Latin Kings have a huge presence both in and out of prison, and their roots go back to the 1940s. Other details of the crown, such as the colors of the jewels in the points, can have a whole other level of hidden meanings.
- Norteño - Norteño tattoos represent the Nuestra Familia gang, which is associated with Hispanic gangs in Northern California. Their tattoos include the word Norteño, Nuestra Familia, a sombrero symbol, the letter N or the number 14, symbolizing the 14th letter of the alphabet (yup — the letter N). The Norteños are rivals of the Suerños, Hispanic gangs based out of Southern California. The unofficial dividing line between the two is in Delano, California. The Norteños identify themselves with red bandannas and mainly get their income from smuggling and distributing cocaine, heroin and meth.
- La Ema - "La Eme," or The M, is the symbol of the Mexican Mafia. They are one of the largest and most ruthless prison gangs in the U.S. They're allied with the Aryan Brotherhood, and have a common enemy in the Nuestra Familia. La Eme was started not in Mexico, but in Mexican-Americans who were incarcerated in American prisons. La Eme is a Sureño gang, belonging to a large affiliation of Hispanic gangs in Southern California.
- MS13 - The MS 13, also sometimes seen just as MS or 13, is a symbol of the Mara Salvatrucha gang from El Salvador. Typically these tattoos can be found anywhere on the body, but are most often found in highly visible places like the face, hands or neck. LA Mara Salvatrucha was started in the Los Angeles area by El Salvadoran immigrants. There are now MS-13 chapters all over the U.S. and even in Canada. Their industries range from dealing drugs to child prostitution.
- Playing Cards - Playing cards, or suits of the deck in general, usually indicate an inmate who likes to gamble. This applies to gambling games both within prison and without; it can also represent a person who generally views life as a gamble. This tattoo is very popular in Russian prisons, where each deck has its own meaning. A spade represents a thief; clubs symbolize criminals in general. Diamonds are reserved for stoolpigeons and informants — if the cards have this deck, then it was likely applied with force. Hearts imply that someone is looking for a romantic partner in the prison, which may also be forcibly applied.
- Cross on Chest - Particularly found in Russian prisons, chest tattoos symbolise a "Prince of Thieves." This is the highest rank a Russian convict can achieve, and are generally worn by higher-ups in the mob. Russian prisons have a unique and intricate history of prison tattoos, each with their own unique meaning. Another example are bells, symbolising freedom, or a tiger on the chest is symbolic of aggression toward the police.
Traditional (also referred to as American Traditional or Old School) is the oldest form of tattooing (after ancient tribal techniques). In the modern world, as we know it, tattooing began with this identifiable style. Solid black outlines, a limited colour palette, less detail and impeccable precision... traditional tattoos stand the test of time.
Popular traditional imagery includes roses, hearts, nautical, eagles, skulls, daggers and women's heads.
2. Realism
A tattoo that looks exactly like it would in the real world. A fine art skill, realistic tattoos done well look like photographs on the skin. Here, it's important to have a good photo reference and pick a skilled, well-known artist. Pay as much as you can for a tattoo of this kind - you get what you pay for, and cheap realism and portrait tattoos look whack.
A tattoo that looks exactly like it would in the real world. A fine art skill, realistic tattoos done well look like photographs on the skin. Here, it's important to have a good photo reference and pick a skilled, well-known artist. Pay as much as you can for a tattoo of this kind - you get what you pay for, and cheap realism and portrait tattoos look whack.
3. Watercolour
Currently very popular, Watercolour tattoos mimic an experimental artistic process - using splashes and streaks of colour to give the impression of paint being used on canvas or paper.
The watercolour effect can be all-encompassing to the design, with no line-work or other styles, but it can also be combined with realism or solid outlines, to form just the background or foreground of a tattoo.
Often bright colours are used and themes of nature.
4. Tribal
The oldest tattoo style, from ancient times. Nearly always black in colour, often using symmetry and geometrical design. Sometimes un-detailed with block black lines, or like the tattoo below, utilising delicate detail and precision. A good artist will carefully design a piece to compliment the shape of the body, like this one.
The oldest tattoo style, from ancient times. Nearly always black in colour, often using symmetry and geometrical design. Sometimes un-detailed with block black lines, or like the tattoo below, utilising delicate detail and precision. A good artist will carefully design a piece to compliment the shape of the body, like this one.
5. New School / Nu Skool
Cartoon-like designs influenced by graffiti and hip-hop artistic techniques and styles. Bubble-like designs, bright colours, exaggerated dimensions and features. Popular with popular culture icons and animals.
Cartoon-like designs influenced by graffiti and hip-hop artistic techniques and styles. Bubble-like designs, bright colours, exaggerated dimensions and features. Popular with popular culture icons and animals.
6. Neo Traditional
Like Traditional, Neo-Traditional tattoos use bold outlines and careful, precise shading. Contrastingly to Traditional tattoos, they are more detailed, more experimental with colour and blending, more dimensional and often brighter – yet often inspired by the 2D layout, limited symbology and specific technique of Traditional tattooing.
Neo-Traditional might also merge different styles together, be elaborate and experimental and often try to be as unique and custom as possible.
Like Traditional, Neo-Traditional tattoos use bold outlines and careful, precise shading. Contrastingly to Traditional tattoos, they are more detailed, more experimental with colour and blending, more dimensional and often brighter – yet often inspired by the 2D layout, limited symbology and specific technique of Traditional tattooing.
Neo-Traditional might also merge different styles together, be elaborate and experimental and often try to be as unique and custom as possible.
7. Japanese
Dating back to 10,000BCE, Japanese tattooing is one of the most sacred tattoo arts. Detailed designs often cover large areas of the body such as the back or the arm. This tattooing style follows a very strict set of artistic rules - positioning, imagery used, direction, colour and more, all adhering to the ancient traditions. Imagery includes cherry blossoms, koi fish, lotus flowers, dragons, war dogs and geishas.
8. Dotwork
Intricate designs that use lots of tiny dots in areas where you might normally shade or use block colour.
9. Geometric
Intricate designs made of shapes that might use symmetry and repetition to create a large design. Alternatively, geometry may be added to a Neo Traditional or other style tattoo.
Often black but may use colour, create a 3D effect or incorporate dot work.
Intricate designs made of shapes that might use symmetry and repetition to create a large design. Alternatively, geometry may be added to a Neo Traditional or other style tattoo.
Often black but may use colour, create a 3D effect or incorporate dot work.
10. Script
Gothic, swirly, intricate fonts are popular but there's no limit to what font a script tattoo might utilise. A good script artist, like Boz De Niro, will create a completely custom tattoo for you, not use a downloadable font.
I need to start thinking more deeply into the type styles involved in tattooing to relate to the Monotype brief.
Gothic, swirly, intricate fonts are popular but there's no limit to what font a script tattoo might utilise. A good script artist, like Boz De Niro, will create a completely custom tattoo for you, not use a downloadable font.
I need to start thinking more deeply into the type styles involved in tattooing to relate to the Monotype brief.
This will be varying as it is mostly as scripted or bold letterforms, but I can research and represent this.
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